January 2, 2023

On the road between the capital and the paulista coast, rests the first city founded in the interior of the state. Going up the mountain, the Portuguese met Guarani, Tamoios, Tupiniquines, Tupinambás, Carijós, and in the midst of this contact of worlds, with many native losses, Santo André da Borda do Campo was officially founded, in 1553, one year before the founding of the city of São Paulo. Over time, this large expanse of land was divided between farms and sesmarias, until it gave rise to the first three cities: Santo André, São Bernardo and São Caetano. Today we are going to visit the first one.

Before the arrival of the Portuguese, the indigenous nations that inhabited the region belonged to the Tupi-Guarani linguistic branch, with great emphasis on the Tamoios, indigenous warriors and wise men, the oldest ethniticity who settled on the coast of São Paulo. The meaning of the word tamoios is 'grandparents'. In the 2008 census, the Greater ABC had some 8,000 indigenous people, a figure that is still shy compared to the more than 2.5 million inhabitants of the region. Other groups settled in the region over the centuries. Afro-Brazilians, descendants of Europeans (especially Portuguese and Italian), Japanese-Brazilian, Syrian-Lebanese and also communities of foreigners, today live in the city for different reasons, among which work and education stand out. The region is a major industrial center, with multinational car manufacturers such as GM and Volkswagen. Regarding education, the Federal University of ABC is one of the most prestigious public educational centers in technological areas, attracting many young people in search of free and quality undergraduate and graduate courses. There is still the case of people seeking humanitarian refuge after having left their countries of origin.

The geography and nature of Santo André are quite privileged. Due to its fertile soil and rich presence of the Atlantic Forest, where more than half of the territory is an environmental protection area, the city offers an excellent quality of life to its inhabitants. Santo André and its neighboring cities have been at the top of the list of cities with the best HDI (Human Development Index) in Brazil for years. In addition, Andreenses have at their disposal 10 excellent urban parks for physical and recreational activities. Parks are a favorite type of outing for city dwellers, and the parks are particularly busy on the weekends.

The best-known green areas are the Central Park, which is also the largest, with almost 400,000 square meters equipped with sports courts, ponds, a band shell for cultural events, a bike path, children's games and an outdoor gym. In this park it is possible to see different types of plants and birds, such as teros, herons, benteveos, sabiás, parrots and woodpeckers. Another postcard of the city is the Celso Daniel Park, close to the train station of the same name, both in honor of the mayor assassinated in 2002. This park, with a beautiful urban work, has tennis courts, a gym and ponds with fish and turtles. This green area is located between the train line and the city's most prized neighborhood, Bairro Jardim, known for its luxurious buildings, international schools, exquisite restaurant route, and lively nightlife.

In its golden age, especially during the management of Celso Daniel, a mayor much loved by the people of Santo André until today, the art was present all the time, everywhere, frequently hosting various cultural events, with parks being one of the main stages.

Green areas are essential for the well-being of the population, as well as hospitals and other public health care centers. The city of Santo André is also a reference in this type of service, with establishments that serve the local and regional population through the SUS (Unique Health System). Among the most evaluated are the Hospital da Mulher Maria José dos Santos Stein, the Municipal Hospital Center of Santo André and the Mario Covas State Hospital. Residents also benefit from the excellent services provided by the UBS (Basic Health Units), the UPAS (Emergency Care Units) and the CAPS (Psychosocial Care Centers).

In the cultural sector, public and private initiatives continue to resist in Andreense lands. The Livraria Alpharrabio, conceived by the Portuguese-Brazilian poet and author Dalila Teles Veras, is a meeting place for lovers of literature and music. Sarau na Quebrada, whose creators are the cook, tour guide and cultural manager Neri Silvestre and the educator, poet and cultural manager Gláucia Adriani, color the lives of the inhabitants of Vila Luzita, on the outskirts of Santo André, with music, Afro-Brazilian food and lots of poetry. Espaço Aberto, a space aimed at the LGBTQIA+ community, especially lesbians, is a point of resistance for people who enjoy barbecue and quality Brazilian music.

In addition to these initiatives, the city has some cultural facilities, especially the Municipal Museum, a heritage building, with a lot of charm in yellow tones, on Rua Senador Fláquer. Also in the center are the Casa da Palavra, dedicated to literary activities and the Casa do Olhar, which hosts visual exhibitions. SESC (Serviço Social do Comércio), a great promoter of culture on Brazilian soil, with an indispensable presence in São Paulo, inaugurated its Santo André unit in 2002, having received various artists from Brazil and the world at festivals, exhibitions and meetings. Also in the unit we find a gym, outdoor and indoor pool, courts, restaurant, library and bookstore.

Another place of interest in the city is the Sabina - Parque Escola do Conhecimento, located next to the Parque Central. The building, designed by the renowned architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha, welcomes children and young people from schools in the region to explore its scientific rooms and the planetarium. Young people curious about geography, biology, astronomy, physics, chemistry and even paleontology have fun while learning a lot. It is also possible to visit the Sabina with family and friends.

Still on the subject of education, Santo André is a reference in the state of São Paulo with its Escolas Livres (Free Schools), spaces managed by the Municipality of Santo André through the Department of Culture. The Free School of Theater (ELT), the Free School of Dance (ELD) and the Free School of Cinema and Video (ELCV) are the triad that integrates these training centers. The courses are totally free and attract not only people from Greater ABC, but also from other parts of Brazil and other countries. Liniker and Linn da Quebrada are two singers and actresses, daughters of ELT, very prominent today.

The architecture of Santo André has other notable examples, from the traditional houses of São Paulo, which still stand in the middle of the walled condominiums, the buildings of the Fundação Santo André, one of the most prestigious and traditional colleges in the region, the OAB building, the Oliveira Lima open-air gallery, the Municipal Theater and the Paço Municipal itself, designed by the architect Rino Levi and the landscape designer Burle Marx.

Urban art is present in the different bars of Santo André. All the tribes meet at the Praieira, a house that pays homage to Chico Science and the Manguebeat Movement. Beer at a fair price, typical food and live music invite people from all over the region to gather in the center of the city. Walking through Santo André, the graffiti and pixação also reveal peripheral voices.

More than 100 years ago, the British built a railway that crosses the Atlantic Forest and connects Santos with the Greater ABC. 34 km from the city center, maintaining its wooden houses, waterfalls and a viewpoint overlooking the sea, the village of Paranapiacaba has its origins in the Tupi-Guarani term meaning 'place where you can see the sea'. The town annually hosts the now traditional Winter Festival, which mixes music, theater, dance and gastronomy. For reasons of real estate speculation, Paranapiacaba, its inhabitants, and tourists are threatened by works that could put its exuberant nature at risk. Fortunately, there are experts and other people in society who understand the historical value of the village, committing themselves to its defense and putting pressure on the government to preserve this environmental and cultural heritage.

The city begins the year 2023 with a cultural apparatus that is highly anticipated by the population. The Cine Theatro de Variedades Carlos Gomes has undergone several renovations and interventions since its inauguration in 1923, being returned to the city again in 2022, on its anniversary. A building of inestimable historical and affective value for the people of Santo André, it must receive different artistic expressions, including music, cinema, theater and dance.

“This is a special moment, which already has a place reserved in the list of my best moments. This place, which is no longer a street cinema as before, but will also show films in other formats and dimensions, will be what people make of it. The people, their desires and uses, are what make the place, and that is the proposal of Carlos Gomes”, celebrates Simone Zárate, secretary of culture of Santo André, at the award ceremony, which was attended by the mayor Paulo Serra and Waldyr Macedo, a former employee who worked for the theater between 1963 and 1968.

Santo André is a noticeably quieter city than the capital of São Paulo, located less than 1 hour from Avenida Paulista by train. Depending on where you are, the city feels somewhat provincial, at the same time that it begins to relive its times of cultural, educational and political effervescence. Known as a commuter town, since many of its inhabitants work and study in São Paulo, Santo André has its charm and its unique way of being. This simple text aims to show a bit of the tourist potential of the Greater ABC, starting with Santo André. Is it worth taking that train in the land of drizzle and getting off in the land of mist? Adoniran Barbosa, São Paulo samba icon and former resident of the city, would recommend taking the eleven o'clock train, not having to wait until tomorrow morning.

#santoandré #abc #grandabc #ufabc #soiree #abcpaulista #saopaulo #paulista #sãopaulo #paranapiacaba #carlosgomes #samba #adoniranbarbosa #parquecentral #parquecelsodaniel #celsodaniel #fundaçãosantoandré #sabina #andreense